Newfoundland's South Coast: Francois

Francois viewed from Notch Block Hill

Francois: Population 80-85

Matt Green’s house in Francois is a two-storey six-bedroom furnished family home sitting right on the water next to a roaring waterfall. For $100 per family per night, it’s a steal. Jody, Matt’s housekeeper, meets us at the ferry in driving rain and leads us past the store along the boardwalks to the house. The thunder and lightning brings rain that beats down on the roof all night making the roar of the waterfall next door deafening.

Inuksuks on Notch Block Hill in Francois

By morning the sun has burned off any dampness and we take the boardwalk up the hill past the new modern school where three teachers will teach ten children in the fall. We also pass the Anglican Church and hydro plant. On top of the hill, we are met with a pond and another huge waterfall. We continue past to Notchblock Hill, the highest point near the ocean for a view of the fjord and Francois below. It rivals Gros Morne in its beauty. While Declan and Chris build inuksuks I do some yoga on the hill top before we descend for a dip in the river below the waterfall.

Who needs a spa?

Seagull in Francois chooses fresh crab for lunch

Pitcher Plants cover the hills above Francois

Hiking in Francois

Beer bottle binoculars borrowed from the store

View of Francois from the Friar

Chris continues through the valley and circles the fjord from above descending on the north side of the community near the incinerator. Reaching bottom he realizes he has lost his triathlon jacket and takes Neil back up top where they spot the yellow fabric in no time.

Lobster pots stacked on the wharf

The children run carefree along the boardwalks while I sit behind Greene’s house on the wharf next to neatly-stacked lobster pots and read. The ocean floor below is covered in scallop shells. Emails come through about the cold weather in St. John’s while sweat runs off my arms. Francois is more colourful than Grey River and although there are fewer people, the town seems fuller. It is the highlight of our south coast adventure.

The thundering falls that reach the harbour right next to Matt Greene's house

The next morning we wake early to take the 7:30 ferry to Grey River and Burgeo. It’s chilly during the four-hour ride but we see more dolphins, one humpback and one fin whale. 

Francois: the highlight of our South Coast Adventure