Newfoundland's South Coast: Francois

Francois viewed from Notch Block Hill

Francois: Population 80-85

Matt Green’s house in Francois is a two-storey six-bedroom furnished family home sitting right on the water next to a roaring waterfall. For $100 per family per night, it’s a steal. Jody, Matt’s housekeeper, meets us at the ferry in driving rain and leads us past the store along the boardwalks to the house. The thunder and lightning brings rain that beats down on the roof all night making the roar of the waterfall next door deafening.

Inuksuks on Notch Block Hill in Francois

By morning the sun has burned off any dampness and we take the boardwalk up the hill past the new modern school where three teachers will teach ten children in the fall. We also pass the Anglican Church and hydro plant. On top of the hill, we are met with a pond and another huge waterfall. We continue past to Notchblock Hill, the highest point near the ocean for a view of the fjord and Francois below. It rivals Gros Morne in its beauty. While Declan and Chris build inuksuks I do some yoga on the hill top before we descend for a dip in the river below the waterfall.

Who needs a spa?

Seagull in Francois chooses fresh crab for lunch

Pitcher Plants cover the hills above Francois

Hiking in Francois

Beer bottle binoculars borrowed from the store

View of Francois from the Friar

Chris continues through the valley and circles the fjord from above descending on the north side of the community near the incinerator. Reaching bottom he realizes he has lost his triathlon jacket and takes Neil back up top where they spot the yellow fabric in no time.

Lobster pots stacked on the wharf

The children run carefree along the boardwalks while I sit behind Greene’s house on the wharf next to neatly-stacked lobster pots and read. The ocean floor below is covered in scallop shells. Emails come through about the cold weather in St. John’s while sweat runs off my arms. Francois is more colourful than Grey River and although there are fewer people, the town seems fuller. It is the highlight of our south coast adventure.

The thundering falls that reach the harbour right next to Matt Greene's house

The next morning we wake early to take the 7:30 ferry to Grey River and Burgeo. It’s chilly during the four-hour ride but we see more dolphins, one humpback and one fin whale. 

Francois: the highlight of our South Coast Adventure

Newfoundland's South Coast Adventure: Grey River

After a lovely breakfast at Four Winds, Sue drove our bags down to the Gallipoli for our 8 am departure. We could walk almost as fast but it saved us carrying everything. Then we were off to Grey River where after 1 hour and 20 minutes of dolphin viewing we sailed through steep cliffs into a magnificent fjord where we were welcomed on the government wharf by a good proportion of the population of 100. Evelyn Warren met us at the wharf and brought us to her one-bedroom former takeout with fridge and stove, double bed and pull-out couch. $75 cash per night (296-3426, cell 660-8632). It was pretty close for seven of us, but Grey River is so charming we didn’t spend much time inside.

 Despite overcast cool weather and more black flies and mosquitoes than I have ever experienced – think Labrador - we donned mosquito nets and hiked up the steep boardwalk above town to the graveyard and to a lookout bench with views of the fjord. Old snowmobile treads have been nailed to the boardwalk for grip. After lunch in the homestead – no restaurants in Grey River – Tom White took us seven miles up the fjord where a private salmon fishing lodge sits at the mouth to the mouth of Grey River itself. Tom showed us his cabin where he goes to get away from the hustle and bustle of Grey River. He also explained how people go out in boats, cut their wood, load it onto the boat and then deliver it right into their front yards. Garfield Young, former store owner – his daughter and son-in-law now run it, has a saw mill right in his backyard. He reclaimed land to build his yard on the water. There’s not too much spare land in Grey River. I’m happy we didn’t have to stay in a tent.

I did see one car, nosed into a driveway in someone’s yard. In good condition but looked like it hadn’t moved in a while. 

 After a supper of spaghetti we bought from the store all the children in the community played tag. You don’t have to worry about them being mowed down by a car and the two seven-year-olds in our care loved the freedom this afforded them.

Next morning we helped a few guys pull up their boat and walked out to the old fishing rooms where we saw a seal slapping her tail at us – perhaps in warning, or to keep our attention away from her baby.W

e visited the abandoned Play Fair tungsten mine. Only went in a few hundred feet because of the possibility of foul air. We also looked for tungsten on the beach and although we didn’t find any, a nice man named Melvin brought us some later back at the abode. It’s black and thick glasslike. Really cool. Lots of other minerals on the beach like fools’ gold.

We almost missed the ferry from Grey River to Francois. The Provincial government schedule online said it came 4:45 daily except Thursdays. I was wandering around town when someone asked if I was taking the ferry that afternoon. I said yes, 4:45. They said, No, it come 3:45. I raced up to the takeout and we had 15 minutes to pack and get seven people down to the wharf. Whew. 

Newfoundland's South Coast Adventure: Ramea

Four Winds B and B in Ramea

 The next morning we bid farewell to our van and boarded the Gallipoli ferry for the island of Ramea – one hour and 15 minutes away. (Note: this ferry does take vehicles but the smaller ferry does not. Plus there are no roads in some of the places we were visiting).

Dolphins frolicked in the ferry spray while fin whales kept a safer distance. From the sea Ramea looks like one long skinny spit of land with windmills dotting the centre. As the ferry chugged closer we entered a maze of islands and discovered the harbour lay on the far side. 

Wind turbine in Ramea

One of many dolphins swimming along with the ferry from Burgeo to Ramea

Seven of us – two couples with three children (we left four children at home) – looked like refugees lugging backpacks up from the wharf up the hill to the Four Winds B and B owned by Sue and Reg McDonald (625-2002). They have a lovely library where you can sit and unwind.

Had lunch at Eastern Outdoors before hiking up Man o’ War hill with views of Puffin, Great and Southwest Island.

Then we circumnavigated the entire island on a well-maintained boardwalk, passing the lighthouse with keeper working away, Muddy Hole fishing village and several stores where we bought lotto tickets and won. We’re not millionaires but even small wins are exciting.

Back to Eastern Outdoors for supper (they are licensed but the only lady on was both cook and server and had no time to buy beer or wine) and a final trip to a beach near the dump/incinerator to see the sunset and dozens of ducks. We also got real close to the wind mills which were all ominously at a standstill.

Whale skull just sitting in a yard in Ramea

Whale skeleton right next to Eastern Outdoors in Ramea

Wet paint in Ramea